There are many glorious science-based terms when it comes to surfing. We all talk about swells, of course, the underwater energy that creates a breaking wave. But we'll look at swell angles and ...

Diffraction occurs when a wave encounters an obstruction in its path and will change direction, or wrap around it. In ocean waves, we see this occur when a wave encounters an object like a jetty and ...

I PERCEIVE on further consideration that my suggestion (NATURE, January 5, p. 8) of a spherical wave-front in place of a plane one to account for the discrepancy between the coefficient of terrestrial ...